Welcome to the beaded spiral wire pendant pattern instructions! If you have any difficulty following this tutorial, please post a comment at the bottom of the page on which you are stuck, and I'll do my best to help!
Before you begin ...
1 or 2 pairs of round-nose plyers, metal cutters (or strong scissors), a cylindrical object (eg. medicine vial) of 2-3cm diameter, 15cm of 18-gauge or 20-gauge wire (any colour, hardware wire is fine), 1 meter of 24-gauge wire (gold-painted), 20cm of 28-gauge gold-coloured wire (optional), 30 of size 11 seed beads (2mm diameter)
Time required: About 3 hours
Techniques: Wire-work with beads
Difficulty: Very Easy
Step 1:Before we start, I'd like to briefly discuss the materials for this pretty beaded wire-work pendant. They are displayed in the picture. You will need minimally one pair of needle-nose plyers, but I recommend two (as shown in the picture). It will make things much easier because you will have double the power and control. It will also make the pendant look nicer and neater, with more tightly pulled wire. But you can totally attempt it with one. Metal cutters are not a huge deal except that 20-gauge wire is rather thick and will be hard to cut with scissors (might ruin the scissors too). But if you keep at it, I'm sure big scissors will cut it eventually. Now I've only shown 20-gauge and 24-gauge wire in the picture, but 28-gauge wire will also be beneficial at the end, although I suppose it's possible to use 24-gauge all the way through. 28-gauge wire is the thinnest. It's quite easy to work with, which is why it's beneficial to use for the hard-to-reach areas of the model you will do at the end. I'll show you when we get there. Now don't freak out about needing three different wire thicknesses in the same pattern because I found all three at the dollar store (Dollarama). The 24-gauge and 28-gauge wires are in the crafts section, and the 20-gauge wire is in the hardware section. The 24-gauge and the 28-gauge wires are both gold-coloured (but I guess you can use any colour you like), and the 20-gauge I used is mat-silvery because that's the only colour they had in the hardware section (I guess electricians don't care what colour wire they use). But you can use any colour for this wire because we will cover every millimeter of it to the best of our ability with the other two kinds of wire. One final word about the wire is that if you've got wires close to these thicknesses but not exactly the same, that should be fine. Go ahead and try it! But I wouldn't go thinner than 20-gauge for the backbone because then it might not keep its shape. Thicker is okay. Anyways, I don't know why I took a picture of the needle in the materials because I don't think I used it. Remember to have your model with you if you've got one! If not, use this tutorial as your model!
Step 2:Now cut a piece of 20-gauge wire about 15 cm long. At this point it is better to overestimate than underestimate because we will be further cutting it down to the right length later. If you start too short though, you will have to start over, or you will just have a smaller pendant!
I guess I forgot to mention above that in the first step, you will need a cylindrical object like a medicine vial (which, as you can see, is where I keep some of my beads!) to wrap the 20-gauge wire around in order to give it a spiral shape. You can use your hands for this step. The wire should be pliable enough for you to manipulate it around the cylinder by hand. A note about the ideal diameter of the cylinder: this can vary because when we start playing with the needle-nose plyers, we will have control to make the final diameter of the pendant larger or smaller. But ideally the diameter of the cylinder should be about 2-3cm. If you use a smaller diameter of the cylinder, then you may use a smaller length of 20-gauge wire.
Step 3:This is what the 20-gauge wire should look like after it has been wound around the cylindrical object. Notice that we do not yet have a spiral but rather all the winding is of the same diameter. Soon we will manipulate the model with the needle-nose plyers such that the spiral diameter gets smaller and smaller as you move inwards. I've put a red dot where we will form the clasp of the pendant. At this point, you could pick either end of the wound wire to twist into a clasp. The other end will be the centre of the pendant (the point of the spiral). Just grab the very edge of one of the two ends with your needle-nose plyers for now.
Step 4:Here I am showing you to twist the needle-nose plyers such that the wire's edge wraps around the tip of the plyers to form a little loop. This will form the clasp of the pendant.
Step 5:After you've formed the loop, you want to make it stand up. So bend back the wire just before the loop so that the loop is at a 90 degree angle to the rest of the wire. This will ensure the pendant hangs upright from the necklace you hang it on.
|Dee Myers on June 5, 2014:|
|thanks, you make it so easy to make these fun patterns|
|Sharon Schmidt on July 19, 2012:|
|I would like to download this pattern of the Spiral Wire Necklace but I want to be able to have it in a PDF file so I can print it in Book Form. To print all six pages of this is a waste of ink and paper|
|Ange on March 11, 2011:|
|turned out very nice. quick project.|
|leanne on February 28, 2009:|
|I would love to see some wire and bead animals.|